Sinop Balik Evi

On my last trip I tried deep fried anchovies near the Spice Market , this time I'm having them grilled and they're definitely more delicious especially with Muammer Usta in the kitchen. 

Siirt Seref - Aryan with Lamb Buryan after dark

Not even a slight drizzle could keep me away from Siirt Seref. 

I did not walk all the way from Seyidoglu on a full stomach just to be turned off into coming. Along the way, I found a great jacket at De Facto, changed some Euros at one of the most bloodsucking moneychangers whose rate was worse than the airport, made a little girl smile , bumped into a family in despair who sought refuge at a small camii, and came across an old man waving what I think was a Kurdish flag. By the time we reach the Valens Aqueduct, it is around 5:30 pm. The row of cay sippers are nowhere to be found .

Treated like a VIP at Seyidoglu

Done visiting the Chora Church, we headed back out towards Fatih. The sky was threatening to pour and so we ran in here, partly looking for refuge yet at the same time wondering if we could find a bite since silly me misinterpreted the word Pasta for noodles.

Cay under the trees - Kariye Pembe Kosk Cafe & Restaurant

You can't miss this cafe as it's situated just across the entrance to the Chora Church. If elsewhere a glass of Cay or Turkish tea costs 1 Lira, well , one has to cough up 2.50 Lira for one unrefillable cuppa here .

Breakfast at Tashkonak Hotel

Tashkonak Hotel's breakfast room has undergone not only a relocation but also a breathtaking makeover.This area used to be the garden where guests would mingle in the evening.

Tatseven Eminonu

Ok, tonight we're having dinner at Tatseven.

The persistent cat at Sevecen Ev Yemekleri

Our flight touched down at 5 a.m. and we could only check into the hotel after 11a.m. , so we headed out to Divanyolu to find something to bite. Zero. Loaded my Istanbulkaart and headed out to Aksaray, walked over to Tatseven...they only had lentil soup available. Not satisfied, walked over to Fatih, went to see if Siirt Seref was open. Gaaaa....not yet.

Trundled down towards the Fatih Mosque and was beginning to get veeeerrryy hungry to the point of wanting to faint....until we came to this place.

Really serves us right for being so picky. Apparently, the general population goes for pastries, breads or soups , light stuff for breakfast, so if you arrive early and are looking for a heavy meaty meal, forget it.  

Lunch at Tatseven

If you're a single female foreign traveller, you will be treated very kindly and respectfully by the good men in Tatseven. 

The outlet is just opposite the Aksaray tram station. Walk away from the station with the mosque behind you and you will be welcomed most graciously by the gentlemen here.

Picking a spot out in the open this time, as it's a sunny lovely day , not too cold.

Namli Gurme - Karakoy

Hung around the New Mosque waiting for the sunset before sauntering along the Galata Bridge into Karakoy. 

By the time I reached the other side, it was this dark. Yet compared to Aksaray metro last night ,only one chap tried to stop me in my tracks and get me to drink tea a couple of stories upstairs ( they'll make sure no single woman ever stays lonely in Istanbul ). When I walked back the same way after my meal , there he was, still trying to get me up to the roof to take pics from the balcony this time.

But he was ok, not so menacing, I can handle him. He won't stress me out enough into having to plan an escape route as he jabbers away.

Gala Kokorec

This is kokorec, stuffed sheep's intestines and I am determined to try it today since it's reputed to be good.

Siirt Seref - Kurdish lamb

Siirt Seref is a local institution in this nice little area known as little Kurdistan.

It's very easy to find once you locate the Valens Aqueduct.

Notice that the roman structure is just next to the building

Welcome to the world of lamb.

This counter lies next to the door.

Vaha Aile Caybehsi - Turkish tea under the trees

And so I wandered right into the heart of Fatih today. 

Was a bit of a shock compared to Sultanahmet where everything is near perfect.

Roads were dug up, witnessed a bicycle protest, walked along the wedding street where drivers went half mad trying to ease the jam by honking. 

Tatseven - Aksaray

As it goes, I am new to Aksaray. Haven't explored this side before. So what to do, I ask the nice uncle behind the reception desk what's nice.

He looks a little worried but after I tell him I love Turkish food, he says " Tatseven " with that Italian gesture that means " mamamia it's sooooo delicious " ( if you know what I mean )

Then I ask him, is the area safe ? He looks me up and down and says with a shrug " Ok, no problem " 

Here I am

Osman Balikcisi - Deep fried anchovies

No I didn't stumble upon this. I was introduced by a local. He said with all earnestness in his eyes that 

" this is good, believe me " 

Well ok, I WAS hungry and how did he know.

So here goes

Trying out Pide for the first time

There are many Pide shops to be found in this area all the way up to the Grand Bazaar.

As you can see in the picture above, it looks like an oblong pizza

Kozde Kanatci Muro - cheapest and most filling

Takes some weaving around the lanes near the Egyptian Bazaar before you can stumble upon this little tuck shop.

I'm just amazed at how much similarity there is to our Pasar Ramadhan's back home. Look at this massive grill and tell me it doesn't remind you of that ? Well, maybe we copied them but who cares, let's sit down and eat.

Tarihi Sultanahmet Koftecisi - Since 1920

Now, don't start comparing this outlet to the fastfood joint, featured a couple of posts before this.
Although they share an almost similar namesake, it comes with an irreplacable old world charm of its own .
 

 

Once inside, I fell totally in love with the place as it reminds me so much of The Coliseum and Le Coq d'Or 
combined.

Sultanahmet Koftecisi - Cevahir Mall

Located on level 5 , we made a sweep round the dedicated food floor before deciding to give this chain restaurant a try .

While you'll see their outlets scattered throughout the city, this one's rather compact and small. Yet, although it's almost always full, the service is fast and topnotch from the very busy, but highly approachable and helpful floor manager down to the kitchen help who flashed me a smile .

Baran 2 Restaurant - Divanyolu Caddesi

The last time I made a mistake such as this was in Beijing, but then again, especially when it comes to foreign food which I'm eager to try out, I never learn.

 Won over by the display, which looked so mouthwatering, we walked in since I reasoned, it's been some days since we'd had a hearty plate of rice. 

Dogu Mangal Durumevi - Alemdar

Small and unassuming in contrast to glitzy restaurants just round the corner, was where I found this nice little tuck shop.

The sight of a family of four, each finding comfort in a bowl of lentil soup out in the pavement, made me walk in to find a spot for myself.